Home-grown fashion designers to watch
- maggiejoyner
- Feb 23, 2021
- 11 min read
The world is filled with wonderful & creative fashion designers, many of whom live right here in Australia. I wanted to highlight some of the talent from home, so I interviewed 6 young local fashion designers about their experience in the industry and their advice for aspiring designers.
Lilli Mckenzie
"Lilli is a ‘fashion artist’ who combines multimedia art forms to create unique wearable pieces. Based in Melbourne on Wurundjeri Country, Lilli is a Bachelor of Fashion Design graduate, studying her Honours in 2021 at RMIT. Lilli’s graduate work ‘Souvenirs’ is a capsule collection of 90’s inspired ‘staycation wear’, featuring a dyeing technique that develops images onto fabric through sun exposure. Lilli utilises mediums such as illustration, film, art and photography with fashion as the common thread that ties them together." -Lilli
Click the arrow to see more images!
Photography by Annika Kafcaloudis + Seek it Find It
What made you want to begin fashion design?
In all honestly I never wanted to be a fashion designer, it’s very obvious to me now though that it’s what I’m meant to be doing. My family and friends saw my potential well before I did and I didn’t always think that fashion could be a serious career path for me. The love of fashion design really came with time. Studying fashion definitely allowed me to understand how multifaceted it can be, and has given me a huge appreciation for the craftsmanship behind it.
What was your first piece you ever made?
If we’re talking the very first piece, I think it was a dress made out of newspaper and tape in grade 6. What’s even more embarrassing is that I brought it to class for show and tell! When I started using a machine I think I made myself a costume for an angels and devils party - I was an angel of course - It was a white strapless dress made out of that really cheap sequin material from spotlight and had little wings attached to finger bands.
What is your favourite piece you ever made?
Without a doubt it is the latex pieces I designed in the second year of my degree. They were made by pouring liquid latex flat onto pattern pieces that were marked out by about 40 meters worth of string. Very finicky and time consuming but oh my goodness the results were so worth it. I mixed the liquid latex in with this beautiful metallic powder pigments and when it dried it created the most beautiful spiderweb look! Another honourable mention would have to be the outfit I made for Hachiku for MPavllion’s Melbourne Music Week last year. Watching her perform in my designs on a live stream was a big highlight!
Where do you draw inspiration from for your work?
When I’m looking for ideas I usually start with a material or technique, and design the silhouette/collection around that. There is so much inspiration that I take from my life, my friends and my surroundings. Which is why it was a little different in 2020, I kind of learnt to adapt in my latest collection. I went through a lot of old family albums of my parents trips to Europe in the 90’s and was just hooked on the idea of creating ‘Souvenirs’ in the form of garments, inspired by these images. Another way I found inspiration since I couldn’t travel anywhere was to go on google maps and explore different cities in Europe.
When I saw colours or textures that inspired me I’d collect snapshots from buildings, landscapes and even crowds of people then constructed the narrative of the collection from that.
Do you have any advice for anyone thinking about becoming a fashion designer?
Fashion is one of the largest industries as well as being one of the largest pollutants. My advice would be to always consider sustainability above all else when designing. Having a good knowledge of materials and understanding of where fibres come from and will eventually end up will help you go a long way. Have a bit of fun with it and when its stops being fun, change it up. Here’s one final tip from coach Lilli - Being a designer is like competing in a swimming race, partly because half the time you’re in deep water - but mostly if you’re checking the swimmer in the lane over you cant concentrate on your own race. Don’t be too hard on yourself, be proud of every race you’ve swum and speedos are never a good fashion statement.
Indie Stewart x INDIA DYLANN
Indie describes her graduate collection 'Youth Rising' as "drawing influence from the potent resistance culture amongst students of the 1960s as well as recent protests across the globe, the collection seeks to empower the wearer and ignite change. The street style and androgynous clothing aesthetic comprise of oversized volumes, visual motifs and fabric manipulation to confront the wearer and create emotional engagement with the pieces. Dedicated to the kids taking the future into their own hands… YOUTH RISING takes inspiration from youth revolution and activism."
Click the arrow to see more images!
Photography by Maggie Joyner + Michael Tartaglia
What made you want to begin fashion design?
At the risk of sounding like a total cliche… I’ve loved the entire world of fashion since I was a child. For as long as I can remember I’ve been sketching clothes, pulling apart magazines and obsessing over what I was wearing. Fashion and the entire design process feel so ingrained in me, it’s definitely become a huge part of my identity.
What was your first piece you ever made?
The first piece I actually sewed myself was a shirt and skirt set up-cycled from one of my Mum’s button-up pyjama shirts. My first experience in ‘the industry’ was at 15 when I won the 2013 General Pants and Co. t-shirt design competition.
What is your favourite piece you’ve made?
That is so hard! I feel attached to so many of my pieces and it depends on my current vibe, but if I had to chose it would be either be the ‘Just Kids’ or ‘Kaleidoscope’ blazer. (*That’s the purple blazer with the gambling embroidery on back*) I feel like these are two of the most original and unique pieces I’ve created. They were also two of the most labour-intensive, meticulous and rewarding to produce.
Where do you draw inspiration from for you work?
The source of my inspiration is dynamic, but recently I’ve felt particularly influenced by Youth Culture. I like the concept of crafting a narrative and using clothing to convey these stories in a universal language.
Do you have any advice for anyone thinking about becoming a fashion designer?
Back yourself! If you are truly passionate and believe in your vision you will be able to perceiver through the endless hours and challenges. No one will ever work as hard or care as much for your label as you do so if you know it’s right, chase it.
Brenna Panayotou x brennatelier
"brennatelier is the result of many years of hard work, little sleep, loads of determination, and one too many cups of coffee. With my love of fashion and passion for stylish design, I founded brennatelier in 2019 and have been a professional Fashion Designer ever since. I create pieces that are fresh, original, and most of all – fun. brennatelier offers flamboyant and fashion-forward pieces, inspired by historical eras and everyday beauty. My diverse line is represented by many collections, which have developed from ideas to realities throughout my studies as a Fashion Design student at Curtin University." - Brenna
Click the arrow to see more images!
Photography by Maggie Joyner
What made you want to begin fashion design?
Growing up, I was always interested in art and design. It was my favourite subject at school and I always loved doing anything creative. I have always had an artistic flare. I saw art as a means to express myself. I never imagined that I would have a degree in fashion design – it kind of fell into place. I felt stuck for a few years after high school finished and I originally started an Environmental Science Degree and then dropped out to work and travel for a few years. Once I figured out that I needed to do something creative and follow a design path, I enrolled in Fashion Design a few days before the enrolment shut off. I kind of thought – why not?
Looking back, it was the best decision I made as I realised I am finally doing something I feel so passionate about.
Fashion is more than just clothing. It essentially can be wearable art and a pathway to channel expression.
What was your first piece you ever made?
The first piece I ever made was during my first semester, when I was just learning to sew. We had to create an item that had to incorporate striped, check and floral fabrics as well as an element of origami. I created a jacket piece that is still one of my favourites today. It was inspired by romanticism and was my first piece that I collaborated with you (Maggie) organising a photo shoot. I am still so impressed that I managed to make that while still learning the ropes and all without a pattern – purely with draping!
What was your favourite piece you’ve ever made?
That is such a hard question... I like different aspects of a few different pieces. Mostly I look as to how they look on the body, the movement of the fabric and the flamboyancy. My favourite piece would have to be a yellow dress I created as part of my Graduate Collection – La Femme Rococo. I loved the bright yellow colour and the exaggerated, over the top ruffle that travelled from one sleeve, across the shoulders and onto the other sleeve. The photoshoot for this dress turned out more amazing than I would have anticipated. Another outfit I loved as I thought the whole styling of the photoshoot created elegant but had a mysterious ambience, was a lace two piece I created in first year. This piece was one of my more simpler designs but I loved the delicate femininity of the lace and the large but soft sleeves.
Where do you draw inspiration from for your work?
My Inspiration can come from anywhere. It could be anywhere from historical fashion, art, architecture, culture, memories. The list is endless. During my time studying, I found myself drawn to ruffles and anything from the romantic period. I enjoyed creating very feminine pieces and as I moved along my degree, I found myself more willing to take risks, creating more ostentatious garments. My graduate collection I started to draw inspiration from the Rococo period. When researching these periods I would look into their way of dress, way of life and philosophies. This would impact my concept, having certain aspects of the period reflected in my garments.
Do you have any advice for anyone thinking about becoming a fashion designer?
If you really enjoy it – do it. If the past year (2020) has taught me anything, it is that we need to do the things we enjoy and love. As cliché as it sounds, life is way too short to have any regrets. I also definitely think interning and having those connections really does help as well as gain you more experience.
Meg Charnaud x xcharnaud
"xcharnaud explores the essence of home. Treating it as an emotional state, over a physical space. Treasuring feeling freedom, a sense of belonging, safety and love. We believe to experience the bliss of this. You must honour both ends of the spectrum, the lightness and darkness that makes you who are you. Whilst forever falling in love with the colours that lie in-between, the love that gives us life. The moments we hold onto as memories. We to celebrate being who you are, loving what you do and mostly how you do it."- xcharnaud's website
Click the arrow to see more images!
Photography by Michael Tartaglia, Mia Qina + Aviva Stella Brackenridge
What made you want to begin fashion design?
I love self expression and found dressing to be a really satisfying way of expressing my personality. I love a challenge as well, fashion gives me heaps of chances to challenge myself.
What was your first piece you ever made?
First thing I sewed myself cropped jacket with flared sleeves. First thing I got made was a bikini ☺️
What is your favourite piece you’ve made?
Favourite thing I ever made named after my sister was my amber top. A v neck crop top at the back that had a full floor length sculpted robe back with waterfall sleeves.
Where do you draw inspiration from for you work?
Nature and work.
Do you have any advice for anyone thinking about becoming a fashion designer?
Stick to your guns, it’s easy to want to copy people. Be true to why you started and have a strong concept.
Julie Mwiragua x JAM
JAM is all about being authentic, fun and inclusive! Julia describes her collection ‘TENDERHEAD’ as “an exploration of the black hair community and a celebration of time, artistry and the love that characterise braiding culture.”
Click the arrow to see more images!
Photography by immaddy_
What made you want to begin fashion design?
I’ve always loved expressing myself through clothes and studying fashion felt like a very natural extension of that. I really struggled through upper school and I was lucky enough that my school offered ATAR fashion, it was my real motivator in my life. It brought me purpose and it was the only thing I was still passionate about.
Fashion for me is my favourite way to tell a story and to be able to harness this and create garments I dream about makes me so me excited.
What was your first piece you ever made?
Probably the piece I ever made was outfits for my Barbies! Through my childhood I’m sure I made some interesting (*very questionable*) creations. The first garment I made for myself, properly patterning making them, was a layered set with two dresses and a top when I was 15. I was actually looking back at that those garments the other day, whew I’ve come a long way!
What is your favourite piece you’ve made?
Ah! It would have to be a pinafore dress from my graduate collection, TENDERHEAD. That was the longest garment, in terms of time and physical length, (literally, the seams were 3 metres long!!) I’ve ever made. It utilises a technique called transformational reconstruction pattern making. This involves draping and manipulating fabric on a mannequin, definitely the most challenging item I’ve ever created. With a front panel that was hand woven and combining silk satin, soft jersey and stretch sequin fabrics, it involved a lot of problem solving. I feel like it’s my most unique piece and honestly the most fun piece to photograph!
Where do you draw inspiration from for you work?
As a designer I draw heavily from my background and personal experiences. I can be a very nostalgic person and I’ve definitely tapped into my youth for inspiration. Through design I love exploring identity and I think this really ties back to how I see fashion as such an incredible form of expression. Colour and texture play a huge part in the way I design, undoubtedly my most utilised elements.
Do you have any advice for anyone thinking about becoming a fashion designer?
Be prepared to be adaptable, work hard and don’t be afraid to make mistakes! Think about what your point of difference is, what makes you unique as a designer and refine it. Research, explore and think about the future. Fashion is constantly evolving and we as designers have a responsibility to be forces for positive change. We must create a better industry, one that serves all people involved as well as our planet!
Aimee Kilpa x MAFIA
"Mafia Collection is a Perth-based label with an emphasis on designs that make a statement, yet can be worn several different ways. Creator Aimee Kilpa designs and creates her clothes locally, and often collaborates with her customers for a tailor-made approach." - Aimee
Click the arrow to see more images!
Photography by Maggie Joyner
What made you want to begin fashion design?
Growing up, I’d watched my mum use her sewing machine for little projects and alterations. It looked fun and I wanted to give it a go. I got a few sewing lessons and then started navigating paper patterns in my free time. I wanted to do fashion design because the possibilities are endless - I love that I can make something myself, instead of having to wait for brands to design something I want to wear.
What was your first piece you ever made?
In middle school I made a slinky dress in a tie dye, psychedelic fabric.
What is your favourite piece you’ve made?
My favourite piece is my “Tahiti” camisole. It can be worn 3 ways AND is reversible. It’s my small way of encouraging sustainable fashion because people get all this variety with the one piece.
Where do you draw inspiration from for you work?
I draw inspiration from what others around me are wearing - I either love the way something fits and flows and want to emulate that, or I think it can be done better and I try to achieve that.
Do you have any advice for anyone thinking about becoming a fashion designer?
My advice is to learn as many practical skills as you can. Both designing and constructing will make you unstoppable!
Comments